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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.